Care Instructions Clarinets

Unfortunately, it is still necessary to point out the exceptional importance of caring for wooden wind instruments, especially new ones. Most complaints about defects or changes are solely the result of improper handling. Our clarinets are made from specially selected grenadilla wood that has been stored for years and processed and treated with the utmost care and all currently known methods. This allows us to keep the rate of cracks very low; however, we cannot entirely exclude the risk of cracking. The cracks observed occur predominantly among a certain group of players and almost always at the same spot on the instrument. We therefore wish to provide brief but important guidelines here, which it is in your own interest to follow, as we decline warranty claims for wooden parts for the reason mentioned above.

New instruments should only be played for shorter periods during the first few days, in order to accustom the wood to the warmth and moisture that occur during playing. After each use — even during playing breaks — clarinets must be taken apart and thoroughly dried. It is well known that moisture can also enter tone holes during playing. By blowing sharply through the instrument with the key open, you should try to remove this moisture as well. This applies especially to keys that you rarely or sometimes never use, such as the A-trill key. Almost all observed cracks in the upper joint originate from the tone hole of this A-trill key. Also bear in mind that the colder the instrument, the more condensation forms during playing. Quite apart from the fact that in cold instruments the expansion of the wood caused by the warmth of playing can also lead to cracks on the outside, you should always ensure temperatures that are as consistent as possible and, in any case, only play instruments that have cooled down once they have at least reached room temperature.

Another hazard for the wood comes especially during the heating season from the often excessively dry air in centrally heated rooms. Woods that have been treated against playing moisture as far as possible unfortunately become more susceptible to excessively high and dry room temperatures. These lead to excessive drying out. As a result, precisely fitted, transversely mounted, and particularly lightly sprung keys can sometimes become stiff in new instruments. Rectifying this problem requires only a small amount of time for the instrument maker. It becomes more serious if rings on the wood also loosen almost imperceptibly as a result. The upper ring on the lower joint in particular should therefore always be monitored, because if the ring is loose, the thin wooden wall at that point can be crushed when assembling the parts. This is the second typical — though less serious — cracking point in wooden wind instruments that have not been properly maintained.

The sealing of the wood surface applied to the bore provides only initial protection for the wood. Where it moves the most due to the warmth and moisture of playing, this layer gradually detaches most readily. This is particularly noticeable in the upper part of the upper joint. Once this becomes visible, you should begin at the latest to lightly oil the bore occasionally with an acid-free oil. However, only oil when the bore is thoroughly dry. For this reason, it is also advisable to store the instruments with the case open frequently.

As a final note, it should be mentioned that cork joints must be greased before assembling the parts of the instrument, that damp swabs used for wiping should not be placed back on the instruments in the case, and that players whose hands tend to perspire heavily may certainly also clean the outside of their instrument from time to time.